Water Heater Ignition Failure
The unit called for heat, tried to ignite, and failed — you may hear repeated clicking or a brief spark attempt followed by silence. This is one of the most common water heater faults across every brand, and it's usually a gas-supply or ignition-hardware problem rather than anything more serious.
Most likely causes, ranked
- Gas shut off somewhere in the supply chain. The valve at the unit, the valve at the meter, or (on propane) a closed or empty tank — checked before anything else because it's the most common cause and the easiest to rule out.
- Inadequate or fluctuating gas pressure. Wrong gas type after a conversion, an undersized line, meter, or regulator, or a demand spike from another gas appliance running at the same time.
- Air trapped in the gas line. Common right after a new install, a tank swap, or any work done on the gas line — several ignition attempts are sometimes needed to bleed it out.
- Failed igniter or damaged igniter wiring. No spark, or a weak spark that can't reliably light the burner.
- Flame rod fault. On units that ignited briefly and then coded out, a fouled or disconnected flame rod can fail to confirm the flame even when one is present, which the control board reads as an ignition failure.
- Incorrect DIP switch or configuration setting on the control board. Especially relevant right after an install or a board replacement.
- No power to the unit. Even gas units need continuous electrical power to run the control board and igniter — a tripped breaker or GFCI shows up as an ignition failure, not a power-loss message.
This exact fault is documented per brand as Rinnai 11, Navien E003, Rheem 11, and AO Smith 111 on tankless models, and as the flash-code lockouts on AO Smith 2 Flashes and related gas tank codes on storage models.
Check this first
- Confirm the gas valve is fully open at the water heater, and at the meter or propane tank.
- If on propane, check the tank level — a near-empty tank can drop pressure enough to prevent ignition well before it reads fully empty.
- Confirm the unit has power — display lit, breaker not tripped, GFCI outlet not tripped.
- Power-cycle the unit once (off, wait, back on) and retry.
- On a newly installed unit or after gas line work, try two or three ignition attempts to let trapped air clear.
- Note the exact error code or flash pattern shown, if any, before resetting.
Which fault code are you seeing?
If a code or blink pattern is showing, look it up directly: code lookup, or jump to a brand: Rinnai, Navien, Rheem, AO Smith.
When to call a professional
Call a licensed plumber or HVAC technician if ignition still fails after confirming gas supply, power, and a couple of retries, or if you smell gas at any point. Igniter, flame-rod, and gas-valve diagnosis all require testing components against the service manual's spec — this isn't guesswork a homeowner can safely do with the cabinet open.
Gas supply lines, gas control valves, and venting should only be worked on by a licensed plumber or HVAC technician. Mains/line-voltage electrical work should be done with the breaker off and, beyond a simple reset, by a qualified electrician or plumber.